Artichoke Gelato, Anyone?

Ingredients that are pegged as savory items have been sneaking their way into desserts more and more these days - to the dismay of many.  I've often found myself on the fence, sometimes appreciating the risk-factor, but usually I am left shaking my head.

A while back I dined at WD~50, Wiley Dufresne's restaurant on Clinton Street in New York City.  The dessert tasting menu was what immediately caught my eye.  The Pastry Chef, Alex Stupak had just left to open his own restaurant, however, his menu was still in place.  Known for their use of molecular gastronomy, WD~50's menu teases diners with playful plating, and contrasting textures, temperatures and flavors.  While it was an enjoyable experience, certain elements were just too much, in my opinion.   One dish in particular made me feel like I was a cow grazing in the meadow - there just happened to be a scoop of ice cream in the grass.  I was not sold.  Since Stupak's departure, the menu has changed.  His predecessor, Malcome Livingston II seems to have tamed things down a bit.  Selections include Bartlett Pear Sorbet with Honey-Milk Crisp and Tarragon & Apple Tart with Pomegranate, Swiss Chard and Pistachio.

I gave up on these pseudo-desserts, until I popped into Amali for lunch.  Located on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, the restaurant offers sustainable Mediterranean cuisine.  After enjoying olive marinated in Greek olive oil and parsley pappardelle Bolognese (side-note: it's AMAZING!!) I moved onto Pastry Chef Anna Markow's dessert menu.  I enjoy following Chef Anna on Twitter (@verysmallanna) and was excited to taste her selections.  I was not disappointed.  She sent out her signature Sticky Chocolate Beet Cake with Stracciatella Yogurt Gelato and Chocolate Honey.  The beet cake was like a chocolate pillow.  The tangy gelato paired perfectly with the warm, moist cake.  Rounding out the wonderfully balanced dessert was a meringue topping that offered a crunch before melting in your mouth.  

Chef Anna also sent out her Ginger Carrot Sorbet.  The texture was spot on.  Also well balanced, the carrot offered a freshness that was complimented with a zingy ginger blast.  It was a perfect palate cleanser to her final offering - Artichoke Gelato.

Believe me, I was nervous, too.  It just doesn't sound like a good idea, but once again I was proven wrong.  Chef Anna nailed it - smooth, rich an flavorful.  The artichoke was subtle.  It offered a nutty flavor that was welcome and refreshing.

Moral of the story:  When carefully thought out (and placed and prepared with purpose,) a savory ingredient can really enhance a sweet offering.

Everything's Better With Butter!

Who doesn't love butter?  For some reason, I've been thinking about how undervalued it is.  Not only is butter used to grease pans, used in almost every baking recipe, and to make pancakes and waffles taste better - it is the shining star of madeline cookies, pound cake and Italian buttercream.  So why does no one talk about how amazing of an ingredient it is?

All butter is not created equally.  For baking and cooking purposes, I only use European (or European-style) butter since it has a purer taste.  It also yields a better product since it has a higher percentage of fat.  (Both European and European-style butters are readily available at local supermarkets.  Check the specialty cheese section if it's not with the other butters.)  

However, lately, I've been making my own butter.  This is usually when this dialogue begins:

Friend: Wait, what?

Me: I made my own butter.

Friend: What do you mean you made your own butter?

Me:  I.  Made.  My.  Own.  Butter.

Friend:  How??  I didn't even know you can make butter!

(Whenever someone says that statement it drives me crazy!  You can make ANYTHING.  Except for matter, I think.  I also get the same response when I make marshmallows.)

Butter is one of the easiest things you can make.  I've even decided to include this recipe in my cookbook.  This will be the first recipe from the book that I'm sharing prior to the release of the book.  Anyway,to make butter all you have to do is over-whip some cream.  The cream will break and you will be left with two byproducts - butter and buttermilk.  Save the buttermilk!  It makes great pancakes, biscuits and red velvet cake!

Butter

Makes approximately 8 ounces.

I typically use homemade butter as a condiment, therefore I like it to have a hint of saltiness in the butter, plus some bursts of salt from a sprinkling of fleur de sel or Maldon. 

2 cups of high-quality heavy cream

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Fleur de sel or Maldon Sea Salt

Using the whisk attachment of a stand mixer, beat the cream on medium speed until it begins to get very thick and starts to yellow in color.  Lower the mixer to slow and continue to whip until the cream breaks.  Turn off the mixer.  Strain the liquid (buttermilk) into a plastic container and refrigerate for other use.  Transfer the butter to a clean bowl and run cold water over it.  Dump the water and refill the bowl with fresh old water.  Repeat this process until there is no debris coming off the butter and the water remains clear.  Transfer the butter onto a piece of paper towel that is folded in half.  Press a second piece of paper towel on top of the butter and gently press to capture excess moisture.

Transfer the butter onto a clean work surface and sprinkle the top with the kosher salt.  Gently massage the salt into the butter.   Shape the butter into a rectangle on top of a piece of wax paper or put it into a ramekin.  Sprinkle the top with the fleur de sel or Maldon.  Cover and refrigerate until you're ready to use.

TIP:  TRY to find cream that is not ultra-pasteurized.  It tastes better!

When To Move On...

So, my last few posts have been more about answering questions and discussing topics about the culinary industry as a whole.

My friends are often seeking advice on what their next step should be.  The culinary industry is a tough one - long hours, competitive nature, physically demanding - the list goes on!!  But, there comes a point when you've overcome the challenges and it's time to move on.  However, sometimes we become too comfortable and make excuses as to why we can't leave.  "No one knows the department like I do."  "Who's going to train and do inventory."  "I created these dishes, I can't just leave them."  YES YOU CAN!

For me, aside from my love of cooking and baking, the best part about this industry is being able to constantly push yourself, your creativity and your growth.  Yes, it can be hard to pick up and leave a job where you're comfortable and surrounded by friends, but if it's holding you back professionally, it's time to go.

When in doubt, ask yourself:

1.  Am I learning something new every day?
2.  Am I passionate about what I'm doing every day?
3.  Am I given the opportunity to make a difference?
4.  Does this job promote creativity?
5.  Is there room for professional growth?

If you do not answer yes to almost all of these questions, you need to think about moving on.  You owe it to yourself!

Is Culinary School Worth It?

Many people ask me this question - two people so far this week!  I HATE IT!  It really depends on the person and where they are in their life.  Here are some pros and cons to help you decide if it's for you...

CONS:

1.  It's EXPENSIVE!  #thisaintcheap is an understatement.  You're going to pay upwards of $25,000 then graduate to try to find a job that pays $10/hour (If you're lucky!) Oh, and good luck with benefits.
2.  Time Consuming.  Many people I attended school with worked a full-time job before heading to class.  It's exhausting and eats a good portion of your free time.  There's studying and projects to do.  Plus, if you really want to succeed, you'll be making puff pastry dough at home, too.
3.  Gets you set in your ways.  I often come across people who say things like, "Well this is how they taught me in culinary school!"  There are many ways to do one task.  The best part about working with different people is learning from them.  I learn something new every day.
4.  It's competitive.  This isn't necessarily a bad thing as it can really help motivate you, but don't let that be your focus.  Do the best you can do.
5.  It may not meet your expectations.  You are not in school for 8 years.  You cannot spend two weeks blowing sugar.  Typically, a technique is demoed, you have an opportunity to try it out and then you move on.  If you really want to learn about a specific ingredient or technique in depth, you may have to do it on your own.


PROS:

1. You're not alone.  Think about how scary it can be starting a new job - you don't know anyone, you're low man on the totem pole and you're expected to jump in and know what you're doing.  Well, everyone is on the same boat, so it's not as intimidating.
2.  Friendships.  You are trapped in a room with people who want to do what you do and who love cooking/baking/food.  You already have tons in common!  I am still friends with many of my classmates and we support each other constantly.
3. Builds a good foundation.  At any good institution, you will learn all the basics, and although you may not spend tons of time practicing a particular technique, you will have the knowledge you need to succeed in the real world.
4. Resources.  Schools have a tremendous amount of resources - libraries, clubs, workshops and culinary demonstrations - which are usually lead by instructors who you haven't been assigned to your class, or even guest chefs / celebrity chefs.  
5.  Alumni Services.  Job portals, advisors, etc.  This is priceless.  I still talk regularly with my advisor and she is always willing to help me make smart decisions. She has even helped me land some pretty amazing jobs,

So, as you can see, the ball is in your court.  YOU have to decide if it is a smart career choice. You can definitely skip culinary school and build a name for yourself in this industry, but you will have to hustle and build your own support system and create your own connections.

I'm a Sap for Maple.

Last weekend I took a trip to Madava Farms, home of Crown Maple Syrup.  Once your car maneuvers up the narrow, muddy hill leading up to the farm, the road opens and you are face to face with thousands of maple trees, many of which are tapped with a food-safe tubing.  I arrived just as the sap season was beginning.  Sap is extracted when the temperatures are above freezing during the day, but below freezing at night.  The variance in temperature creates pressure which pushes the sap right out of the tree.

For a small fee, you can tour the facilities and learn how sap is turned to syrup.  Long story short - after an intensive round of filtering, the sugar content in the sap is increased until it is high enough to caramelize.

At the end of the tour you are lead to the tasting room where you can sample all the different "strengths" of syrup. Crown Maple Syrup is super smooth and has a very pure taste.  It is one of the best products I've sampled in a long time.  I purchased both the Medium Amber and the Grade B.  (SIDE NOTE: Grade B does not mean it is not a premium product.  It just has darker color and more intense flavor profile, therefor it is commonly used for baking.)

Madava Farm also houses a store that sells their products as well as the products of some other local businesses, like Mast Brother's Chocolate.  There is also a little "cafe" where you can order house-made savory and sweet items.

Fast forward.  I've spent a better portion of the last week developing recipes for my upcoming cookbook and am almost completely out of syrup.  Here's a recipe that I developed for fun.  Don't be creeped out by the thought of using cedar as an ingredient.  It is easy to find and offers a subtle, yet smokey flavor that balances well with the sweetness of the maple syrup.

Charred Cedar Ice Cream with Maple Swirl

1 cedar plank, charred and broken into three or more pieces
2 1/2 cups heavy cream, divided
1 cup milk
3/4 cup sugar, divided
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
5 extra-large egg yolks
3 tablespoons Crown Maple Syrup, Medium Amber, plus more for garnish

Bring 1 1/2 cup of the heavy cream, the milk,  1/2 cup of the sugar and the salt to a simmer in a high-sided skillet.  Add the charred cedar pieces and allow to steep, covered, for one hour.  Remove the cedar, making sure to scrape as much liquid off them before discarding.  Bring the liquid back to a simmer.

Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolks and remaining 1/4 cup of sugar until it begins to lighten. When the liquid begins to simmer, temper the yolks.  To temper, slowly add some of the hot liquid to the yolks while whisking constantly.  When half of the hot liquid has been added, pour the yolk mixture into the pot with the remaining liquid mixture.

Over a medium heat, stir the mixture continuously until it begins to thicken and coats the back of a wooded spoon.  Be careful to not overcook or the eggs will scramble.  Strain (the finest mesh strainer you have!) the mixture into a quart sized measuring cup (or a large bowl.)  Add the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream and gently stir until fully combined.  Transfer to a quart container or tupperware and refrigerate overnight.

Following the instructions provided with your ice cream machine, churn the base until it is the consistency of soft-serve ice cream.  Place a quarter of the ice cream into a pre-frozen container. Drizzle with the syrup.  Repeat the layers until you use all the ice cream and syrup.  Place a layer of plastic wrap over the ice cream and harden in the freezer for at least four hours, preferably overnight.  Serve as is or with a drizzle of syrup.

New Year, New Career

Every year I get off to a good start and am pretty good about keeping up with my blog.  Sometimes it's just too much pressure to write and/or develop a recipe for a blog.  So, I am going to take a new approach.  Instead of just posting written blogs, look for picture blogs and even video blogs this year.

What can you expect?  Well, this year I'm hoping to work solely as a full-time freelance pastry chef, food stylist and culinary producer.  Also, in case you were unaware, I've been working on a cookbook which I hope to have done by next fall.  My future posts will revolve around all the various projects I'm working on. So, if you have a google account, subscribe to my blog!

I am going to keep this post short and sweet, but want to share a link that really made sense to me.  I hope you find it insightful.  (Thank you Megan!)

http://jamesclear.com/goals-systems

Happy New Year!!

Anthony

FAQs

I am constantly getting questions from friends, family and random emails from people who read my blog so I thought I would do a post dedicated to answering some of the most frequently asked questions...

Where do I get my supplies?
Everywhere, really.  Anytime I'm out-and-about, it can turn into a shopping excursion.  I am constantly looking for products to experiment with.  Little markets, boutique food shops and farmer's markets are great for this.  You may come across something like pollen or an interesting fruit or vegetable.

I do, however, have some go-to vendors.

Arizona Vanilla Company
http://www.arizonavanilla.com/

I get the majority of my vanilla products here.  High quality, good prices and great customer service.  I'm a huge fan of Mexican vanilla, but you can order the variety pack to see which your favorite is!

World Wide Chocolate
http://www.worldwidechocolate.com/
This is where I get a lot of my chocolate products from.  Pretty decent prices, and they always have some sort of sale going on.  It pays to buy as much as possible because the shipping is pretty pricey.  Also, be careful if you're ordering chocolate to a hot climate area;  they offer a special deliver service for that.  Also, that crap you buy from craft stores is not chocolate.  Just sayin'.

Global Sugar Arts
http://www.globalsugarart.com/index.php

If I need to get a special mold, fondant, or general supplies, this is where I generally order from.  Their stuff is fairly priced (for the most part) and the customer service is decent, too.  Whenever possible, I'd rather pick these items up in person to make sure it's exactly what I'm looking for.  In that case, I head to...

Candyland Crafts
http://www.candylandcrafts.com/
They carry everything an amateur baker would need, and most things a professional would be looking for.  They have a whole room dedicated to chocolate and candy molds.  I'd be shocked if you couldn't find one that you needed.

JB Prince
http://www.jbprince.com/

This place is amazing.  It's like a toy store for chefs.  They have everything from equipment to molds to hard to find cake pans, etc.  It's definitely worth a visit.  It's pricey, but they have a lot of hard to find items and the quality is great.

Amazon
http://www.amazon.com

Nowadays, you can find pretty much everything on amazon.  Make sure you read the product descriptions accurately and are only purchasing through trusted vendors.  There are a lot of imitation products out there, so be careful.

What tools should I invest in?

Everyone should have the basics - a pie pan, 8" cake pans, cupcake pan, pastry brush, rolling pin, loaf pan, thermometer, off-set spatula, whisk, rubber spatula, mixing bowls and some sort of a mixer.  Those are the ABSOLUTE basics.  There are a lot of gadgets and gizmos out there.  Don't buy something unnecessary or something that you'll use only once or twice before hiding in a cabinet.

Do quality ingredients really make a difference?

YES!  If you're making a chocolate chip cookie and throw in some artificial vanilla extract, you may not pick up on it, but use the same "extract" to make a vanilla ice cream and, because it's the dominant flavor, it will probably be detectable. 

First of all, try not to use anything artificially flavored.  These days, it's not much more to buy the real thing.  It makes a difference and it's better for the environment - and for you!

One item that anyone who enjoys baking should look into is European (or European Style) butter.  The higher fat content makes a better, tastier product - especially in things where butter is the star, like pound cake, croissants or buttercream.

What's my favorite thing to make?

It really depends on the day.  I go through phases.  Some days I like making component items like pastry cream, lemon curd or buttercream.  Other times, I like making scones, pound cakes and cookies.  If I had to pick one thing, I would say marshmallows.

Why didn't my cake come out like yours?

Geez!  I get this too often.  It could be a dozen things!  Did you read the recipe wrong, scale the ingredients incorrectly, screw up a technique? - I could go on all day.  My best advice would be to retrace your steps.  More often than not, you can figure out where you went wrong.  Also, don't expect to ace something you've never made before on the first shot.  Like everything else in life, practice makes perfect. 

Why do custom cakes (or custom anything) cost so much?

Basically, it's for the same reason a custom car or custom wedding dress would cost a lot!  Most people do not realize the amount of time that goes into  making a custom cake.  A simple two tiered cake with a small bouquet of sugar flowers takes hours - and that's just the flowers.  Also, (quality) fondant is not cheap.  Everything adds up - the supplies, costs of ingredients and time.  If you aren't paying a fair price it's either because you're not using a professional, someone is giving you a sub-par product or they are new to the industry and are low-balling themselves!

What's the deal with fondant?

I have to be honest, I am not a fan.  Unless you are getting a tipsy-turvy cake or a carved cake, I try to steer customers away from it.  I do not like the taste and it's not cheap.  You are going to spend a lot more on a cake with fondant than one elegantly covered in buttercream - just my opinion.

Extra! Extra! (Virgin) Read All About It!!

Things have been kind of crazy around here - but in a good way.  Alison Attenborough, the AMAZING food stylist I worked with for Johnny Iuzzini's cookbook, called me and asked if I'd be interested in working on another cookbook.  

This was for Gabiele Corcos and Debi Mazar's (Yes, from Entourage) first cookbook.  I was enthralled!  They have a wonderful show on the Cooking Channel (Make sure you check it out!) featuring mouth-watering recipes created by Gabriele.  The show is fun and the recipes are simplistic and feature authentic Tuscan cuisine.

As an assistant food stylist, I was responsible for preparing the components for each recipe. I work with Alison, the photographer (Eric Wolfinger, who deserves a blog post of his own.  Super talented, super cool guy!) and Gabriele and Debi to ensure we're all on the same page and that everything goes smooth.  Along with Jo, Alison's other assistant, we banged out over 10 recipes a day.  

One of the dishes I styled.

Sometime shoots can be chaotic and stressful, but this was the total opposite.  We were like a well-oiled machine, everyone working in harmony.  Eric's assistants Ally and Nicola were awesome, too.  Aside from being a lot of fun to hang with, they were always in the kitchen helping us out.  

Gabriele made us coffee every morning.

As far as Gabriele and Debi, they're just amazing.  The treated us like family and I am honored to call them friends.  They are extremely passionate about food and have stories linked to all the recipes.  The food is RIDICULOUSLY GOOD!  (We got to eat everything for lunch and sometimes dinner.)  If you love Italian food - good Italian food - you NEED THIS BOOK!  It should hit shelves in the spring of 2014.  Don't worry, I'll remind you! 

Eric signing my copy of Tartine Bread

Ally determined to get the perfect shot of Lampo.

Nicola trapped behind the stove.

For more info, check out...

http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/shows/extra-virgin.html

http://underthetuscangun.com/

http://peaceandpasta.com/

http://ericwolfinger.com/

http://500px.com/alisonchristiana

To Love You S'more

So, yesterday when I woke up and started making cupcakes for an event my mother was holding, I didn't really know what I was going to make.  Time was of the essence to it had to be something quick and I was determined to use only the ingredients I had in the house.  At least I was able to stick to one of those things...

I was low on butter so that was a problem right off the bat.  I decided to make chocolate cake because it's easy, tasty and uses very little butter.  I had a bit of time to plan my next move while the cupcakes baked and cooled.  What can I make with no butter?  It was a toss-up between ganache and marshmallow frosting.  Anyone who knows me knows I am addicted to marshmallows so it wasn't a difficult decision.  Then it hit me - S'MORES! 

My only concern was the graham cracker.  I didn't have any on hand which isn't a big deal; I'd rather make my own.  Thankfully, I had everything I need to make them!

I made little rounds and piped lines of milk chocolate on top.  Garnish, check.

As I was about to make the meringue for the marshmallow topping, I thought it might be fun to fill the cupcakes with chocolate ganache.  So much for quick and easy, but we all knew that elaborate is my middle name...

I didn't realize how many people are addicted to s'mores.  I'm getting a lot of inquiries about these bad boys. 

By the way, DELISH!!!

Inspiration

While I was waiting for my Blue Bottle coffee a few weeks ago, I noticed a postcard advertising the upcoming release of Caitlin Freeman's latest cookbook.  I was curious as to why they would be pushing it, but nonetheless, the concept - Cakes, Cookies, Confections and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art - intrigued me enough to order it.

Chef Caitlin, who is well-known as one of the owners of Miette in San Fracisco, sold her shares of the company when she married her husband - creator of Blue Bottle Coffee.  It all makes sense now.  She is now the Pastry Chef for the company.

The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) approached her husband; they were interested in having a Blue Bottle Cafe onsite.  He jumped at the opportunity.  He asked Caitlin to make desserts for the cafe and she decided that the desserts served should be inspired by the art within the walls of the museum.  Brilliant!

I am in awe with this book.  Freeman shows pictures (with descriptions) of the artwork that inspired the dessert and it's both whimsical and genius.  Some are straight-forward such as Wayne Thiebaud's Display Cakes, while others are more suggestive - Andrew Kudless' P_Wall.  She also explains how, with her sous chef, the final products came about.

Display Cakes, Thiebaud

Freeman's Version

Kudless' P_Wall

Freeman's Version

I've already tried a couple of times from this book and am sure I will check out a few more, but I look forward to creating a series of blog posts inspired by art here in New York City!  Stay tuned - and BUY THIS BOOK!!

It's May in NYC, So Let's Make a Pecan Pie

I received an expected message from one of my cousins down in Kentucky.  In it, he offered his Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie Recipe.  I was excited to try it.  He was open to suggestions - could he improve upon it?  

Original Recipe

My version

I made his recipe as is.  Well, with the exception of the pie shell.  His called for one from the frozen section of the supermarket and you all know I'm too snobby for that!  It was very good - although too chocolately and a tad too sweet for me.  Also, aesthetically, it was over caramelized and sunken.  I know, I know, all pecan pies are very sweet and look like that, but it's something that has always irked me.  So I made a few changes...

What's great about this pie is that you can change it up as you please.  I will offer a few variations.

Original Recipe

My version

9" Pie Crust

You can use a frozen one from the supermarket or you can make your own!  Here's a recipe in case you don't have one...  http://www.marthastewart.com/344292/our-favorite-pie-crust

4 tablespoons Butter
1 cup Dark Brown Sugar
1/2 teaspoon Salt
3 eggs
2/3 cup Lyle's Golden Syrup*
2 tablespoons Bourbon**
Seeds from 1 Vanilla Bean
2 cups Pecan
Chocolate Chips, for garnish (up to 4 ounces)

Preheat oven to 350.  

Toast the pecans until they become fragrant.  About 10 minutes.  Allow to cool and then coarsley chop.  

If you are making your own pie shell:  Once you've made, rolled and lined your pie pan, let the shell refrigerate for a half hour.  Line the shell with parchment paper and fill with dry beans, rice or pie weights.  Cook for 12 minutes.  Remove the parchment and filling and cook for an additional 5 - 7 minutes or until the shell begins to brown but is not fully cooked.  

If you are using a pre-bought supermarket shell: Remove the shell from the packaging, straight from the freezer.  Line the shell with parchment paper and fill with dry beans, rice or pie weights.  Cook for 15 minutes.  Remove the parchment and filling and cook for an additional 5 - 7 minutes or until the shell begins to brown but is not fully cooked. 

When you remove the parchment from the shell, begin working on the filling.  Start by melting the butter in a double boiler over gently simmering water.  When melted, remove from the heat.

Stir in the sugar and salt and combine.  Add the eggs, followed by the golden syrup, bourbon and vanilla seeds (if using.)  Stir until all ingredients are fully incorporated.

Return the mixture to the double boiler and stir until the mixture is very warm to the touch, but not hot enough for you to be unable to stick your finger into it.

Remove from the heat and stir in the pecans.

By now, the pie shell should be finished or almost finished.  Remove the shell from the oven and reduce the temperature to 275.

Pour the filling into the still warm pie shell and sprinkle the top with high quality chocolate chips, pressing them into the filling if you'd like.

Bake for 55-65 minutes or until the center of the pie springs back slightly when you gently press on it.

Allow to cool completely - at least 4 hours.  

*You can find Lyle's Golden Syrup with either the honey or maple syrup in most supermarkets.  If you can't find it, you can substitute it with corn syrup.

**What is Bourbon?  Bourbon is whiskey that was produced in the United States with a grain mix of at least 51% corn.  It cannot have any additives other than water (to keep the proof under 160) The high percentage of corn makes it sweeter than other whiskeys.  You can substitute with plain old whiskey if need be.

If you'd like to change it up:

Maple Pecan Pie

Omit the Lyle's or Corn Syrup, Bourbon and vanilla.

Use a 1/2 cup granulated sugar as opposed to 1 cup of brown sugar

Add 1 cup maple syrup

Reduce the pecans to 1 1/2 cups.  (Or use toasted walnuts instead!)

Honey Walnut Pie

Replace the Lyle's with a boldly flavored honey

Replace the pecans with walnuts

Feeling Spicy?

I've wanted to do a post on spices for a while now but, for some reason, every time I begin one I am at a loss for words and just give up.  Not this time.

I think part of the problem is that there's so much I want to cover that I do not know how to say everything I want to all while writing a post that flows well.  So, here's my disclaimer:  This blog may not flow or make sense.  

I have shared my pumpkin loaf recipe with a handful of people and every time I do so, the person tells me that it doesn't taste the same.  No, I did not alter the recipe before I gave it to you.  The only two things I can think of are:

1.  You may think it sounds crazy, but baking is as mental as the motions you make while baking are physical.  If you think about what you're doing too much, it just doesn't come out good.  I swear by this mantra.  

2.  I hand grind EVERY spice that goes into the loaf.  It makes a difference. 

Now that I've got that out of the way, let's discuss the dos and don'ts of working with spices.

1.  Whenever possible, use freshly ground spices.  Invest in a microplane and a mortar and pestle.  Both are relatively inexpensive and extremely useful.  

2.  If you are using a recipe, unless it says otherwise, the spice measurements listed refer to pre-ground spices you find in a glass jar at the supermarket.  Beware, some spices are not as potent when freshly ground - like nutmeg - so you have to double the quantity!

3.  Vice versa.  It works both ways...

3.  Do not overdose on spices!  When trying a recipe, always make it exactly as printed.  (Unless you're experienced and can tell is something is off.)  If you do not get the desired spice flavor after trying it, bump it by 25% and keep testing the recipe (bumping it up by 25% each time) until you're happy with the outcome.  Adding too much of a spice can give the finished product a chalky texture and can mute the other flavors.

4.  Don't under do it, either.  Usually a spice is added to enhance the flavor of something else.  If there isn't enough you'll know something's there, however you won't know exactly what it is.

5. I know most of you are not going to grind your own spices.  I'm not stupid.  So, all I ask is that you buy quality spices.  I order the majority of my spices from www.penzeys.com 

6. Spices do not last a lifetime.  They don't go bad, but they do lose strength.  Generally, ground spices last up to a year and whole spices last up to two years.  I try to order all my spices once a year so that I can easily keep track of how long I've had them.  I usually order them in October so that they are nice and fresh through the fall and winter, when I use them the most.

7.  Store your spices in an airtight container in a cool, dark place in your kitchen.  NOT in a spice rack on your counter or next to the oven.

The Last Dessert

Everyone always asks, "What would your last meal be?"  Well, I decided to ask around and see what people would want as their last dessert.  The answers have ranged from cake to fruit (FRUIT?? Really, you're dying!)  What I found most interesting is that people aren't as specific when they answer this question.  They say something like cookies or ice cream instead of committing to an exact item like chocolate chip cookies or rocky road.

One of my friends was very specific.  Lemon Bars.  Although I'm not convinced it qualifies as the last thing I'd shove into my mouth, I was intrigued nonetheless.

The last time I made a lemon bar was when I was working at Sweet Sally's Bakeshop.  It wasn't one of her most popular items and I rarely made them.  I was too lazy to dig through my recipe archive and decided to develop my own...

LEMON BARS

Adapted from the Barefoot Contessa

Note: If you aren't going to juice your own lemons, don't waste your time making these.

Shortbread

1/2 pound butter

1/2 cup vanilla sugar

2 cups all-purpose flour

generous pinch of kosher salt

Lemon Curd

6 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

2 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup lemon juice

zest of 6 lemons (small to medium size) or approximately half the lemons used for the juice)

2 cups flour

Garnish

confectioners sugar

Preheat your oven to 350.

Coat a 9x13 pan with baking spray and then it line with foil so that the edges exceed the height of the pan.  (This will help you remove the bars later!)

To make the shortbread, cream the butter until fluffy and then add the vanilla sugar.  (To make vanilla sugar, simply add used vanilla beans to a container of sugar and let sit a few weeks.  The moisture of the bean may cause the sugar to clump. You can break up the sugar by hand or pulse in a food processor.  As a substitute, you can just use plain sugar and add half a vanilla bean!)  Allow to mix for a few minutes.  

Add the salt and flour in one addition.  Mix on low just until the dough comes together.  Press the dough into the bottom of the prepared pan until you have an even layer of crust. Chill for 15 minutes.  Bake the shortbread just until it begins to color, about 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolk and sugar.  Add the lemon juice and zest and mix until fully incorporated.  Add the flour in 3 to 4 additions, gently whisking until incorporated.

When the shortbread is done, pour the curd on top, carefully return to the oven and bake an additional 32-37 minutes.  The top should be set and not jiggle.

Allow the bars to cool at room temperature before attempting to remove them from the pan.  Use the foil tabs to pull the bars out of the pan.  Trim off the edges and then cut the bars into squares, rectangles or triangles.  Dust generously with confectioners sugar and serve.  

These will keep nicely in the fridge for up to 5 days if sealed in an airtight container.  Allow to come to room temperature before serving and sprinkle a fresh layer of confections sugar on top.

Obsessions

For some reason, I am addicted to springerle molds.  In simpler terms, they are wooden cookie molds.  They are more common in Europe (the Dutch windmill being the most popular) and come either as a block of wood or a patterned rolling pin.  I went through a phase where I was purchasing them on eBay, but my favorite two come from a street cart I came across in Bruges, Belgium.

When I went to San Francisco with Emma and her husband, Chris, one of the places we visited (on more than one occasion) was Tartine.  What a phenomenal bakery.  If you're in the Bay Area, do NOT miss it!  Thankfully, thy have a cookbook and its pages are filled with the products they sell in the shop.  One thing I've been meaning to try is the Soft Gingerbread Cookies.  The recipe called for a lot of molasses, and, usually I'm not a fan, however, the generous doses of spices (ginger, cloves, cinnamon, black pepper) helped balance the flavors.

I ALWAYS grind my own spices when possible, and you should, too!  I plan on doing a blog dedicated to spices at some point soon, but for now, that is my advice to you.

TARTINE - Soft Glazed Gingerbread

The Cookies

3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon cocoa powder

4 teaspoons ground ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground

1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 cup and 2 tbsp granulated sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup blackstrap molasses

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

Glaze

1 cup confectioners' sugar

2 tablespoons water

To make the dough, stir together the flour, cocoa powder, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl. Set aside.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-high speed until creamy. Slowly add the granulated sugar and mix on medium speed until the mixture is completely smooth and soft. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.

Add the egg and mix well. Add the molasses and corn syrup and beat until incorporated. Stop the mixer again and scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until a dough forms that pulls away from the sides of the bowl and all the ingredients are well incorporated.

Remove the dough from the bowl, flatten it on a large piece of plastic wrap into a rectangle about 1 inch thick, cover the dough with the plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick liner.

Unwrap the dough and place on a floured work surface. If using a plaque with a design, roll out the dough 1/3 inch thick, lightly dust the top with flour, press your cookie molds over the dough, and then cut out the shapes with a small knife and place on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 1 inch apart. Alternatively, using the mold as a guide, cut around it with a small knife, flip the mold over so the design is facing you, and place the dough over it, pressing it into the design. Unmold the shapes onto the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 1 inch between them.

If using a patterned rolling pin, lightly dust the lined baking sheet with flour and transfer the dough to the pan. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and roll it into a rectangle about 1/3 inch thick with a plain pin. Then, using the patterned pin, roll over the dough with enough pressure to ensure a clear impression of the design. Trim the sides with a small knife. It is not necessary to cut into smaller sizes before baking.

Bake the cookies until lightly golden along the sides but still soft to the touch in the centers, 7 to 15 minutes. The timing will depending on the size of the individual cookies, or if you have made a single large patterned piece that will be cut after baking.

While the cookies are baking, prepare the glaze. In a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners sugar and water until smooth.

When the cookies are ready, remove from the oven and let cool on the pan on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. Then, while the cookies are still warm, using even strokes, brush a light coat of glaze on the top of each cookie, evenly covering it.

Let the cookies cool completely. When the glaze dries, it should leave a shiny, opaque finish. If you have used a patterned pin to make a single large plaque, cut into the desired sizes with a small, very sharp knife. At the bakery, we cut them into 3-by-4-inch rectangles, but 1 1/2 by 4 inches makes a nice smaller size.

Confit, Or Not Confit

One of my favorite things to make is Citrus Confit.  I'm not quite sure why, but I find it relaxing to make, plus, its a good way to use up lemons and oranges that are on the brink of spoiling.

Confit.  On more than one occasion someone has asked me what it is.  Most traditionally, a confit is a meat that is cooked and then stored in it's own fat - duck being the meat of choice.  However, the confit I am referring to is  fruit or vegetable that has been cooked until tender in a seasoned liquid.

Citrus Confit is one of the easiest things to go about making and can make a big statement when served on some complimentary-flavored ice cream, cake or even fish or chicken.  Not only does it add a sweet, citrusy flavor, it's super elegant looking, too!


Citrus Confit
2 large oranges
3 lemons
1 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Cut the skin off the lemons and oranges using a small pairing knife by starting at the top and carefully cutting towards the bottom.  The goal is to get slices that are at least 1 1/2 inches in length.  Also, try to stay as close to the edge of the fruit as possible to avoid excess pith.

2. Still using a sharp pairing knife, carefully remove as much of the pith as possible, leaving just the outer skin.

3. Slice the skin longways into very thin slices and place into a medium saucepan filled with a couple of inches of could water.

4. Bring the water to a boil and strain.  Refill the saucepan with cold water, put the citrus back into the pot and bring to a boil.  Repeat this process one more time.

5. After you've strained the citrus a third time, add the water, sugar and salt to the saucepan and place over a high heat.  Allow to come to a simmer making sure the salt and sugar are completely desolved.  (Congratulations, you've just made a simple syrup!)

6.  Add the citrus to the simmering simple syrup and cook on a low flame until the skin becomes translucent.  (This means the syrup has penetrated the skin and it is now candied.)

7. Using the tines of a fork, transfer the confit to a mason jar.  Add the (now citrus flavored) syrup to the jar and fill leaving just a quarter inch from the top.  Place on the lid and let cool to room temperature before storing in the fridge.  Citrus Confit can last for months in the fridge.

Lemon Confit on Citrus Loaf

Everything Happens For A Reason...

In the couple of weeks after ending my involvement with Milk Sugar Love, I wasn't exactly sure what my next move was.  Fortunately, an amazing opportunity came along...

For the past few weeks, I have been working on a special project.  I have had the priveledge of helping Johnny Iuzzini with his second cookbook.  Not only is Johnny Iuzzini one of the most well-aclaimed pastry chefs in the country - you may remember him as the Head Judge on Top Chef: Just Desserts - he is one of the nicest guys I've met in the industry.  He's also insanely talented. 

This blog could easily turn into a novel, but I will do my best to keep it on the short side.  I will, however, do an update before the book is released (ETA May 2014) and after it is released and I'm allowed to show pictures of some of the things we worked on.

Not only did I get to work with Johnny, but some other incredibly talented people as well:  Wes Martin, culinary producer.  He's done TONS of cookbooks and does a lot of work with Rachel Ray.  Janet Lo, Wes' Assistant, follow her on Twitter and Instagram @jloeats.  Alison Attenborough, Food Stylist.  Check out her super-impressive website... www.alisonattenborough.com  Michael Spain-Smith, Photographer... www.michaelspainsmith.com

Wes working in his "office."

Janet showing off her nuts.

Making a cookbook is A LOT of work.  Johnny and Wes have been working on the overall "mood" of the book for quite a while and it was amazing to see their vision come to life.  This book is going to be geared towards the home cook and is going to be a must-have for any at home baker - amateur or professional.  It is going to be LOADED with pictures and great recipes.  Michael took over 3,500 pictures and Wes expects the book to contain over 200 of them.  The pictures are amazing.  I wish I could share them, but I can't!

I was part of a group of interns who helped mise en place (measure out) ingredients so that Johnny, Wes and Alison could have everything ready to go as they needed things.  We also were asked to make a series of recipes out of the books to ensure accuracy and to make sure Johnny was happy with the final outcome.

Mandel polishing some crops.

The last week of the shoot was pure chaos!  We were so behind but still had a lot of tech and beauty shots to do before the deadline.  (Tech shots are a series of photos that show a particular technique, while beauty shots are photos of a completed recipe.  They're the pretty ones you see throughout a cookbook.)  We were all working in overdrive.  I was lucky enough to work one-on-on with Johnny helping him plow through mousses, sabayons, souffles, ganaches, tarts and more.

Johnny making chocolate covered fans.

My favorite moment was tempering chocolate to make fans to complete a tart.  Johnny even asked me to work the set to keep the chocolate in place and replace fans as needed.  (It gets very hot under the lights so everyone needs to be on the same page and work efficiently to keep a finished product from "dying."

Like I said, I will definitely be telling you more about this amazing experience in the future.

 Jelly Bean Break.  Baby Wipe or Coconut?

Johnny's Disco Light.

Pizza Rustica

If you're Italian and do not eat this on Easter, SHAME ON YOU!  Easter is definitely my favorite food holiday - and pizza rustica is the main reason why.  Meat.  Cheese.  More meat and more cheese, all bundled in a sweet dough.  #drool  (Side note: The manicotti, peeps, chocolate covered marshmallows and Italian cheesecake don't hurt either!)

No doubt it's a week worth of calories, but, hey, we only it eat once a year!

Pizza Rustica
adapted from Nick Malgieri

My sous-chef.

Filling the shell.

Makes 1 12-inch pie

Sweet Dough

3 cups flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold
3 eggs, beaten

Filling

2 pounds ricotta**
6 eggs
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano
1 pound mozzarella, coarsely grated
1/2 pound sweet dried sausage, peeled and diced
1/2 pound prosciutto, shredded
1/2 cup chopped parsley

Egg Wash

1 egg
1 pinch salt
Hawaiin sea salt, optional

**Use a good store-bought ricotta.  It should be on the "dry" side.  If it's very moist, drain the excess water using a cheese clothe.

Spray a 12" straight-edged pan with non-stick baking spray.

For the Sweet Dough, combine dry ingredients in bowl of food processor and pulse several times to mix. Dice butter and distribute evenly over dry ingredients. Pulse until very finely powdered. Add eggs and continue to pulse until dough forms a ball that revolves on blade.  Dump dough onto a clean work surface and, in as few motions as possible, give a couple of kneads to fully incorporate the dough.  Press into a disk, wrap and chill.

For the Filling, place ricotta in a mixing bowl and stir in eggs one at a time; stir in remaining filling ingredients in the order listed, mixing only long enough to make sure everything is evenly distributed.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and set a rack in the lower third. Divide the Sweet Dough into 2 pieces. Roll 1 of the pieces thinly to line a 12-inch straight-sided cake pan. Pour in filling and smooth top. Roll the remaining dough to a 12-inch square and cut into 1-inch strips.   Create a lattice work over the filling.  Press strips at rim of pan to adhere and trim away excess dough even with top of pan.  For the eggwash, mix the egg and salt.  Using a pastry brush, paint the lattice and crust.  Sprinkle with Hawaiin sea salt, if you'd like.

Bake until the filling is set and the dough is baked through, about 45 minutes. Cool in the pan on a rack. To unmold, place a platter on top and invert, removing pan. Replace pan with another platter and invert again, removing top platter. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Refrigerate any leftovers.

Ready for the oven