Extra! Extra! (Virgin) Read All About It!!

Things have been kind of crazy around here - but in a good way.  Alison Attenborough, the AMAZING food stylist I worked with for Johnny Iuzzini's cookbook, called me and asked if I'd be interested in working on another cookbook.  

This was for Gabiele Corcos and Debi Mazar's (Yes, from Entourage) first cookbook.  I was enthralled!  They have a wonderful show on the Cooking Channel (Make sure you check it out!) featuring mouth-watering recipes created by Gabriele.  The show is fun and the recipes are simplistic and feature authentic Tuscan cuisine.

As an assistant food stylist, I was responsible for preparing the components for each recipe. I work with Alison, the photographer (Eric Wolfinger, who deserves a blog post of his own.  Super talented, super cool guy!) and Gabriele and Debi to ensure we're all on the same page and that everything goes smooth.  Along with Jo, Alison's other assistant, we banged out over 10 recipes a day.  

One of the dishes I styled.

Sometime shoots can be chaotic and stressful, but this was the total opposite.  We were like a well-oiled machine, everyone working in harmony.  Eric's assistants Ally and Nicola were awesome, too.  Aside from being a lot of fun to hang with, they were always in the kitchen helping us out.  

Gabriele made us coffee every morning.

As far as Gabriele and Debi, they're just amazing.  The treated us like family and I am honored to call them friends.  They are extremely passionate about food and have stories linked to all the recipes.  The food is RIDICULOUSLY GOOD!  (We got to eat everything for lunch and sometimes dinner.)  If you love Italian food - good Italian food - you NEED THIS BOOK!  It should hit shelves in the spring of 2014.  Don't worry, I'll remind you! 

Eric signing my copy of Tartine Bread

Ally determined to get the perfect shot of Lampo.

Nicola trapped behind the stove.

For more info, check out...

http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/shows/extra-virgin.html

http://underthetuscangun.com/

http://peaceandpasta.com/

http://ericwolfinger.com/

http://500px.com/alisonchristiana

To Love You S'more

So, yesterday when I woke up and started making cupcakes for an event my mother was holding, I didn't really know what I was going to make.  Time was of the essence to it had to be something quick and I was determined to use only the ingredients I had in the house.  At least I was able to stick to one of those things...

I was low on butter so that was a problem right off the bat.  I decided to make chocolate cake because it's easy, tasty and uses very little butter.  I had a bit of time to plan my next move while the cupcakes baked and cooled.  What can I make with no butter?  It was a toss-up between ganache and marshmallow frosting.  Anyone who knows me knows I am addicted to marshmallows so it wasn't a difficult decision.  Then it hit me - S'MORES! 

My only concern was the graham cracker.  I didn't have any on hand which isn't a big deal; I'd rather make my own.  Thankfully, I had everything I need to make them!

I made little rounds and piped lines of milk chocolate on top.  Garnish, check.

As I was about to make the meringue for the marshmallow topping, I thought it might be fun to fill the cupcakes with chocolate ganache.  So much for quick and easy, but we all knew that elaborate is my middle name...

I didn't realize how many people are addicted to s'mores.  I'm getting a lot of inquiries about these bad boys. 

By the way, DELISH!!!

Inspiration

While I was waiting for my Blue Bottle coffee a few weeks ago, I noticed a postcard advertising the upcoming release of Caitlin Freeman's latest cookbook.  I was curious as to why they would be pushing it, but nonetheless, the concept - Cakes, Cookies, Confections and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art - intrigued me enough to order it.

Chef Caitlin, who is well-known as one of the owners of Miette in San Fracisco, sold her shares of the company when she married her husband - creator of Blue Bottle Coffee.  It all makes sense now.  She is now the Pastry Chef for the company.

The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) approached her husband; they were interested in having a Blue Bottle Cafe onsite.  He jumped at the opportunity.  He asked Caitlin to make desserts for the cafe and she decided that the desserts served should be inspired by the art within the walls of the museum.  Brilliant!

I am in awe with this book.  Freeman shows pictures (with descriptions) of the artwork that inspired the dessert and it's both whimsical and genius.  Some are straight-forward such as Wayne Thiebaud's Display Cakes, while others are more suggestive - Andrew Kudless' P_Wall.  She also explains how, with her sous chef, the final products came about.

Display Cakes, Thiebaud

Freeman's Version

Kudless' P_Wall

Freeman's Version

I've already tried a couple of times from this book and am sure I will check out a few more, but I look forward to creating a series of blog posts inspired by art here in New York City!  Stay tuned - and BUY THIS BOOK!!

It's May in NYC, So Let's Make a Pecan Pie

I received an expected message from one of my cousins down in Kentucky.  In it, he offered his Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie Recipe.  I was excited to try it.  He was open to suggestions - could he improve upon it?  

Original Recipe

My version

I made his recipe as is.  Well, with the exception of the pie shell.  His called for one from the frozen section of the supermarket and you all know I'm too snobby for that!  It was very good - although too chocolately and a tad too sweet for me.  Also, aesthetically, it was over caramelized and sunken.  I know, I know, all pecan pies are very sweet and look like that, but it's something that has always irked me.  So I made a few changes...

What's great about this pie is that you can change it up as you please.  I will offer a few variations.

Original Recipe

My version

9" Pie Crust

You can use a frozen one from the supermarket or you can make your own!  Here's a recipe in case you don't have one...  http://www.marthastewart.com/344292/our-favorite-pie-crust

4 tablespoons Butter
1 cup Dark Brown Sugar
1/2 teaspoon Salt
3 eggs
2/3 cup Lyle's Golden Syrup*
2 tablespoons Bourbon**
Seeds from 1 Vanilla Bean
2 cups Pecan
Chocolate Chips, for garnish (up to 4 ounces)

Preheat oven to 350.  

Toast the pecans until they become fragrant.  About 10 minutes.  Allow to cool and then coarsley chop.  

If you are making your own pie shell:  Once you've made, rolled and lined your pie pan, let the shell refrigerate for a half hour.  Line the shell with parchment paper and fill with dry beans, rice or pie weights.  Cook for 12 minutes.  Remove the parchment and filling and cook for an additional 5 - 7 minutes or until the shell begins to brown but is not fully cooked.  

If you are using a pre-bought supermarket shell: Remove the shell from the packaging, straight from the freezer.  Line the shell with parchment paper and fill with dry beans, rice or pie weights.  Cook for 15 minutes.  Remove the parchment and filling and cook for an additional 5 - 7 minutes or until the shell begins to brown but is not fully cooked. 

When you remove the parchment from the shell, begin working on the filling.  Start by melting the butter in a double boiler over gently simmering water.  When melted, remove from the heat.

Stir in the sugar and salt and combine.  Add the eggs, followed by the golden syrup, bourbon and vanilla seeds (if using.)  Stir until all ingredients are fully incorporated.

Return the mixture to the double boiler and stir until the mixture is very warm to the touch, but not hot enough for you to be unable to stick your finger into it.

Remove from the heat and stir in the pecans.

By now, the pie shell should be finished or almost finished.  Remove the shell from the oven and reduce the temperature to 275.

Pour the filling into the still warm pie shell and sprinkle the top with high quality chocolate chips, pressing them into the filling if you'd like.

Bake for 55-65 minutes or until the center of the pie springs back slightly when you gently press on it.

Allow to cool completely - at least 4 hours.  

*You can find Lyle's Golden Syrup with either the honey or maple syrup in most supermarkets.  If you can't find it, you can substitute it with corn syrup.

**What is Bourbon?  Bourbon is whiskey that was produced in the United States with a grain mix of at least 51% corn.  It cannot have any additives other than water (to keep the proof under 160) The high percentage of corn makes it sweeter than other whiskeys.  You can substitute with plain old whiskey if need be.

If you'd like to change it up:

Maple Pecan Pie

Omit the Lyle's or Corn Syrup, Bourbon and vanilla.

Use a 1/2 cup granulated sugar as opposed to 1 cup of brown sugar

Add 1 cup maple syrup

Reduce the pecans to 1 1/2 cups.  (Or use toasted walnuts instead!)

Honey Walnut Pie

Replace the Lyle's with a boldly flavored honey

Replace the pecans with walnuts

Feeling Spicy?

I've wanted to do a post on spices for a while now but, for some reason, every time I begin one I am at a loss for words and just give up.  Not this time.

I think part of the problem is that there's so much I want to cover that I do not know how to say everything I want to all while writing a post that flows well.  So, here's my disclaimer:  This blog may not flow or make sense.  

I have shared my pumpkin loaf recipe with a handful of people and every time I do so, the person tells me that it doesn't taste the same.  No, I did not alter the recipe before I gave it to you.  The only two things I can think of are:

1.  You may think it sounds crazy, but baking is as mental as the motions you make while baking are physical.  If you think about what you're doing too much, it just doesn't come out good.  I swear by this mantra.  

2.  I hand grind EVERY spice that goes into the loaf.  It makes a difference. 

Now that I've got that out of the way, let's discuss the dos and don'ts of working with spices.

1.  Whenever possible, use freshly ground spices.  Invest in a microplane and a mortar and pestle.  Both are relatively inexpensive and extremely useful.  

2.  If you are using a recipe, unless it says otherwise, the spice measurements listed refer to pre-ground spices you find in a glass jar at the supermarket.  Beware, some spices are not as potent when freshly ground - like nutmeg - so you have to double the quantity!

3.  Vice versa.  It works both ways...

3.  Do not overdose on spices!  When trying a recipe, always make it exactly as printed.  (Unless you're experienced and can tell is something is off.)  If you do not get the desired spice flavor after trying it, bump it by 25% and keep testing the recipe (bumping it up by 25% each time) until you're happy with the outcome.  Adding too much of a spice can give the finished product a chalky texture and can mute the other flavors.

4.  Don't under do it, either.  Usually a spice is added to enhance the flavor of something else.  If there isn't enough you'll know something's there, however you won't know exactly what it is.

5. I know most of you are not going to grind your own spices.  I'm not stupid.  So, all I ask is that you buy quality spices.  I order the majority of my spices from www.penzeys.com 

6. Spices do not last a lifetime.  They don't go bad, but they do lose strength.  Generally, ground spices last up to a year and whole spices last up to two years.  I try to order all my spices once a year so that I can easily keep track of how long I've had them.  I usually order them in October so that they are nice and fresh through the fall and winter, when I use them the most.

7.  Store your spices in an airtight container in a cool, dark place in your kitchen.  NOT in a spice rack on your counter or next to the oven.

The Last Dessert

Everyone always asks, "What would your last meal be?"  Well, I decided to ask around and see what people would want as their last dessert.  The answers have ranged from cake to fruit (FRUIT?? Really, you're dying!)  What I found most interesting is that people aren't as specific when they answer this question.  They say something like cookies or ice cream instead of committing to an exact item like chocolate chip cookies or rocky road.

One of my friends was very specific.  Lemon Bars.  Although I'm not convinced it qualifies as the last thing I'd shove into my mouth, I was intrigued nonetheless.

The last time I made a lemon bar was when I was working at Sweet Sally's Bakeshop.  It wasn't one of her most popular items and I rarely made them.  I was too lazy to dig through my recipe archive and decided to develop my own...

LEMON BARS

Adapted from the Barefoot Contessa

Note: If you aren't going to juice your own lemons, don't waste your time making these.

Shortbread

1/2 pound butter

1/2 cup vanilla sugar

2 cups all-purpose flour

generous pinch of kosher salt

Lemon Curd

6 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

2 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup lemon juice

zest of 6 lemons (small to medium size) or approximately half the lemons used for the juice)

2 cups flour

Garnish

confectioners sugar

Preheat your oven to 350.

Coat a 9x13 pan with baking spray and then it line with foil so that the edges exceed the height of the pan.  (This will help you remove the bars later!)

To make the shortbread, cream the butter until fluffy and then add the vanilla sugar.  (To make vanilla sugar, simply add used vanilla beans to a container of sugar and let sit a few weeks.  The moisture of the bean may cause the sugar to clump. You can break up the sugar by hand or pulse in a food processor.  As a substitute, you can just use plain sugar and add half a vanilla bean!)  Allow to mix for a few minutes.  

Add the salt and flour in one addition.  Mix on low just until the dough comes together.  Press the dough into the bottom of the prepared pan until you have an even layer of crust. Chill for 15 minutes.  Bake the shortbread just until it begins to color, about 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolk and sugar.  Add the lemon juice and zest and mix until fully incorporated.  Add the flour in 3 to 4 additions, gently whisking until incorporated.

When the shortbread is done, pour the curd on top, carefully return to the oven and bake an additional 32-37 minutes.  The top should be set and not jiggle.

Allow the bars to cool at room temperature before attempting to remove them from the pan.  Use the foil tabs to pull the bars out of the pan.  Trim off the edges and then cut the bars into squares, rectangles or triangles.  Dust generously with confectioners sugar and serve.  

These will keep nicely in the fridge for up to 5 days if sealed in an airtight container.  Allow to come to room temperature before serving and sprinkle a fresh layer of confections sugar on top.

Obsessions

For some reason, I am addicted to springerle molds.  In simpler terms, they are wooden cookie molds.  They are more common in Europe (the Dutch windmill being the most popular) and come either as a block of wood or a patterned rolling pin.  I went through a phase where I was purchasing them on eBay, but my favorite two come from a street cart I came across in Bruges, Belgium.

When I went to San Francisco with Emma and her husband, Chris, one of the places we visited (on more than one occasion) was Tartine.  What a phenomenal bakery.  If you're in the Bay Area, do NOT miss it!  Thankfully, thy have a cookbook and its pages are filled with the products they sell in the shop.  One thing I've been meaning to try is the Soft Gingerbread Cookies.  The recipe called for a lot of molasses, and, usually I'm not a fan, however, the generous doses of spices (ginger, cloves, cinnamon, black pepper) helped balance the flavors.

I ALWAYS grind my own spices when possible, and you should, too!  I plan on doing a blog dedicated to spices at some point soon, but for now, that is my advice to you.

TARTINE - Soft Glazed Gingerbread

The Cookies

3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon cocoa powder

4 teaspoons ground ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground

1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 cup and 2 tbsp granulated sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup blackstrap molasses

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

Glaze

1 cup confectioners' sugar

2 tablespoons water

To make the dough, stir together the flour, cocoa powder, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and pepper in a mixing bowl. Set aside.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-high speed until creamy. Slowly add the granulated sugar and mix on medium speed until the mixture is completely smooth and soft. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.

Add the egg and mix well. Add the molasses and corn syrup and beat until incorporated. Stop the mixer again and scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until a dough forms that pulls away from the sides of the bowl and all the ingredients are well incorporated.

Remove the dough from the bowl, flatten it on a large piece of plastic wrap into a rectangle about 1 inch thick, cover the dough with the plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick liner.

Unwrap the dough and place on a floured work surface. If using a plaque with a design, roll out the dough 1/3 inch thick, lightly dust the top with flour, press your cookie molds over the dough, and then cut out the shapes with a small knife and place on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 1 inch apart. Alternatively, using the mold as a guide, cut around it with a small knife, flip the mold over so the design is facing you, and place the dough over it, pressing it into the design. Unmold the shapes onto the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 1 inch between them.

If using a patterned rolling pin, lightly dust the lined baking sheet with flour and transfer the dough to the pan. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and roll it into a rectangle about 1/3 inch thick with a plain pin. Then, using the patterned pin, roll over the dough with enough pressure to ensure a clear impression of the design. Trim the sides with a small knife. It is not necessary to cut into smaller sizes before baking.

Bake the cookies until lightly golden along the sides but still soft to the touch in the centers, 7 to 15 minutes. The timing will depending on the size of the individual cookies, or if you have made a single large patterned piece that will be cut after baking.

While the cookies are baking, prepare the glaze. In a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners sugar and water until smooth.

When the cookies are ready, remove from the oven and let cool on the pan on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. Then, while the cookies are still warm, using even strokes, brush a light coat of glaze on the top of each cookie, evenly covering it.

Let the cookies cool completely. When the glaze dries, it should leave a shiny, opaque finish. If you have used a patterned pin to make a single large plaque, cut into the desired sizes with a small, very sharp knife. At the bakery, we cut them into 3-by-4-inch rectangles, but 1 1/2 by 4 inches makes a nice smaller size.